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1. What tyre works the best for my CCM Supermoto?
2. What oil should I use?
3. How do I change the oil on my Rotax?
4. What brake pads work the best, OEM or aftermarket?
5. My bike makes this funny rattling sound, what is it?
6. I would like to purchase an aftermarket exhaust. What works the best,
what are the common jetting numbers, and what horsepower gains will I see?
7. I need a stand for my bike. What stand will work the best?
8.
What suspension changes can I make to my bike? Can I just change my
settings?
9. What gearing choices work the best for my CCM?
10. How do I make crash bobbins?
11. How do I jet my carb?
12. What is jetting? How
does it work?
13. How much pressure or tension is correct
for the adjustment screw on the sidecase of clutch?
14. Will I need to re-jet my bike if I
modify the airbox?
15. What battery should I use for my
CCM?
16. What is the correct tyre pressure for Goldspeed Supermoto Tyres?
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1. What tyre works the best for my CCM Supermoto.
One of the most
popular tyres now is the Maxxis Goldspeed. These are great tyres and
come in various compounds from street compound to ultra soft.
Street Sports, are a
superb compromise for riders who don't compete on track. They deliver great
performance and grip and are fantastic value for money. Same pattern as the
race intermediates, but manufactured with a road compound for extra
mileage.
Some
people are worried about the chain fouling the tyres, but you should not have
any problems with this. If you fit them and find you do have a problem, it
is most likely your wheel alignment that is out.
".....the
performance is fantastic - bags of grip, even at high angles of lean.....
there's terrific wet weather performance..... Got a Supermoto? Get these on
it." RIDE Magazine
".....for
a genuine Supermoto all rounder do-it-all set of boots, we'd plump for the
Goldspeeds which are the daddies..... a real Supermoto bargain compared with
some of the others..... made the bike feel nimble and very flickable..... good
grip all around the track...." Supermoto Magazine
Visit
www.aaa-racing.com for more
details.
Other popular tyres:
Brand:-
Pirelli Dragon MTR02 (H rated) 120/60 150/60
Road:-
Good, neutral, square off quickly, loads of grip (took a couple of miles to
warm up in winter, then again most tyres do), average to good wet weather
grip, very good feedback
Track:-
Neutral, predictable, masses of grip - total confidence, very good feedback
Blister up nicely after a hot track day
Pressures:-
28/28
Mileage:-
2000F 3000R
Brand:-
Challenger Tomahawk (Metzler carcass) 120/70 160/60
Road:-
Very quick steering, average feed back, a bit twitchy (but nothing to worry
about) flat out, grip like nothing I've used before. Fine in the wet but not
much tread so have never *really* pushed them.
Track:-
Superb, grip straight off. Totally predictable. Far more ability than the
rider
Pressures:-
28/28
Mileage:-
700R 1000F (but cheap)
2.What Oil Should I use In My Rotax.
Make sure you have a good mineral oil (not synthetic or semi-synth) castrol
GP (not GPS) is one of the best at around £12 - 15 for 4litres
3. How To Change The Oil On My Rotax.
All this is how i change my oil on my rotax engined bike.... its a bit long
winded but once you have done it its straight forward enough
1, make sure you have a good mineral oil (not synthetic or semi-synth)
Castrol GP (not GPS) is one of the best at around £12 - 15 for 4litres you
will need an oil filter, and a replacement fibre washer for the magnetic
sump plug ccm part 250-010 its an 18mm o/d 12mm i/d fibre washer
how to do it...
2,remove the oil filler plug from the top of the frame between the fuel tank
and headstock 8mm allen key
3, remove the front drive sprocket cover (two 5mm allen screws) this exposes
the cover plate for the oil filter
4, remove the sump bash plate if you have one (DS models) its held on with
four nuts and bolts (5mm allen/13mm a.f. nuts) yes its a bit awkward
5,place an old drain oil can under the frame and remove the frame drain plug
(13mm a/f) situated below the engine on the nearside frame rail be quick to
move your drain can under the jet of oil that is shooting from the frame
onto your knee oh yes have plenty of rags handy!
6, remove the magnetic drain plug from the sump again move your drain can
under the oil pouring onto the floor
7, remove the oil filter cover plate via the 3 5mm allen screws and catch
more oil..... remove the old filter, give the housing a wipe out then push
in the new filter .... refit the cover plate
8, make sure you have re-fitted your frame and sump drain plugs..... even
more oil on the floor is usually a good indicator you have forgotten one
9,measure out 2 litres of oil and slowly fill the frame using a long
flexible funnel don't rush it to avoid airlocks
10, leaving the long funnel in place I turn the motor over a dozen times on
the kickstarter (ignition off) to circulate the oil round the filter etc and
remove any air (you will hear big glugging noises from the filler whilst
hand turning the engine
11, pour another 1/2 litre in, refit the filler cap "important"
don't run the
bike without the filler cap in place...more oil on the floor! run the bike
for five minutes switch off check the oil level at the sight tube on the
nearside of the headstock just below the filler, sight tube should be half
full after you have turned the engine off...top up a bit at a time and
repeat the running/sighting procedure
12, now spend at least an hour cleaning the oil off the garage floor! top
tip ..... put some plastic sheet down before you start
well this is the way I do it and I haven't had any problems.... other than
the floor usual disclaimers! not my fault if you cock it up eh!
4. Brake pads and most recommended.
- OEM Honda Brake pads. These are the highest recommended pad on the list.
They have great stopping power, good feel, readily available and are
reasonably priced. Grade (5)
- EBC Green Race. OK for a while, not as good as OEM. Grade (2)
- Galfer Green's (5) in the dry (3) in the wet
- Braking KC6 Grade (5) They've got all the things I'm looking for -
consistency, feel, fade resistance, and in particular, give the stock system
more power.
- Carbone Lorraine sintered pads and I am well pleased with them. The bite
and feel is superb. The only downside to them is that they take a little
warming up before they really start to bite and the dust needs cleaning away
every few weeks or they start to squeal a bit. Grade (3)
5.My bike
makes this funny rattling sound, what is it?
Normal to an extent. Valve clearances may be too big (only potentially a
problem if they go too quite and have therefore closed up). Piston slap
(some is normal). Small end (possible). Worn rockers.
6.The best after market can.
Without a doubt has to be the REMUS factory race can, but beware this is one
awful load can, it goes with the 185 main jet also supplied with the can,
also there is a club discount group buy available from Quill, which has a
nice bark and is road legal, but needs a bit more fettling with jets (Rotax
engine) Suzi engine uses a 135 main jet
7. I need a stand for my bike. What stand will work the best?
Almost any cheap and cheerful MX lift stand.
8. Suspension settings by weight and riding (track/street)
Ensure correct sag is set and drop front forks by 5-10mm. Beyond that it's
personal preference.
9. What gearing choices work the best for my CCM
18/44 (tuned) 18/46 (standard) as a good starting point
10. How do I make crash bobbins
Skateboard wheels and threaded rod with lock nuts.
11.
How do I jet my carb?
The Jetting FAQ
All carbs are basically the same components. Jetting should be accomplished
by modifying the lower end first and changing towards the wide open throttle
after the lower end is right (idle, bottom rpms, mid range, and then wide
open).
Start with number one and change through number six.
NAME IT AFFECTS
1) Air Screw- idle to just off of idle (not the idle screw)
2) Pilot Jet- just off of idle to 1/4 throttle
3) Jet Needle- 0- 1 /2 throttle, work with the needle shape first, then the
clip position
4) Needle Jet- 1/8-3/4 throttle, also called nozzle
5) Slide Cutaway - 1/4-3/4 throttle, the angle of the cut affects air intake
6) Main Jet- 1/2-full throttle
Notice that every component overlaps the throttle range of one or more of
the other components. Most people only change needle clip position, and
pilot/main jets. Some older Mikuni's also have a power jet (1 /8-1/2
throttle). Most people check jetting by looking at the plug or the exhaust
spooge. I jet by how the bike sounds and feels in response to throttle input
at different rpm starting points. I always jet by the numbers listed above,
one first, then two, etcetera. I don't mess with the cutaway because of
price, nor the nozzle because my Keihn doesn't change. I've never known
anyone who can jet a bike right the first time. All jetting is trial and
error, because every bike is
different. And different from the one designed by the manufacturer on the
flow bench. Castings are different, gaskets, assembly, etcetera.
As said before, higher -> leaner, warmer -> leaner, wetter -> leaner, and
vice versa. The trouble comes when it gets cold (richer) and wet (leaner).
The most sound advice is this:
If it is too rich, you foul the plug, but if it is too lean, you'll eat the
engine.
Step 1: Basic Assumptions OK.
We will assume that
your air cleaner is clean and that you are using the fuel / oil mixture you
plan to stay with. Timing needs to be set to factory specs. Muffler
and spark arrestor should be relatively clean. Use the recommended spark
plug.
Step 2: Main Jet First.
The main jet controls the mixture at full throttle. Other jets have
negligible effect at full throttle.
Your objective is to get an understanding of the mixture at full throttle
(wide open) operation. You need a long up-hill straightaway for this test so
you can be in the top gear with the engine under load and running up in the
RPM range.
If you hear pinging, it is running lean; so go larger on the main.
If full throttle causes gasping and poor pulling at mid RPMS, it is again an
indication of running lean; so go larger on the main.
If the bike runs clean select a larger main jet until you find the jet that
causes a blurbbing (four-cycling) sound. When you experience that sound, you
have found the jet that causes you to run too rich. So back off one size to
a smaller jet. This is the safe main jet to use. You could go
another size leaner; but you need to be careful to avoid running too lean
which causes the engine to run hot and could seize the piston. It's better
to jet on the rich side.
Step 3: Needle Jet clip position and needle selection
The needle jet controls the mixture from 1/8 to 3/4 throttle. At the upper
end of this range the main plays a part too; but you have already selected
the main jet.
Again you need an up-hill straight away. This time use 1/2 throttle and
allow the RPMs to reach the upper RPM range and leave the throttle there.
Now do your listening.
Any pinging means too lean. Blurbbing means too rich. Excessive smoking is
also an indication of running too rich
To adjust to a richer mixture, take out the needle and place the clip one
notch lower (nearer to the sharp end of the needle).
To adjust to a leaner mixture, take out the needle and place the clip one
notch higher (further away from to the sharp end of the needle).
Be careful when you remove the clip. They can flick away and disappear.
I use a small flat screw driver and pry the clip away from the needle and I
hold the needle and clip between my thumb and finger while I do this.
If you find that you are up at the top notch of the needle (there are
usually 5 notches) you should get a needle with the next lower number
(leaner) and place the clip in the centre notch to give the equivalent
mixture as the richer needle with the clip at the top. Similarly if you find
that you are up at the bottom notch of the needle you should get a needle
with the next higher number (richer) and place the clip in the centre notch
to give the equivalent mixture as the leaner needle with the clip at the
bottom.
You should not have to go to any more than one size leaner needle than
stock. And I would not expect you to need to go richer than the stock
needle.
Next go along slowly in one of the lower gears at less than 1/8 throttle and
move the throttle quickly to 1/2 throttle. If the engine does not pull
strongly. Sort of gasps for breath and only runs well after the RPMs build
up, it is an indication that the needle is too lean.
Step 4: Pilot Jet selection and Air Correction Screw Adjustment
Regarding the pilot jet. When you are at 1/4 throttle and more, the pilot
jet has virtually NO effect. After you get the needle right, get the bike
idling by adjusting the idle stop up where it will idle slowly on its own.
The air correction screw should be at 1.5 turns out to begin with.
OK now slowly screw in the air correction screw 1/4 turn. Try to find the
air screw adjustment where you get maximum idle RPM. You may have to open
the screw to 1.75 or 2.0 turns to get the right setting. As the idle RPM
increases turn down the idle stop to return the idle RPM to a slow correct
idle.
You objective is to find the pilot jet that will give you maximum idle with
the air screw set at 1.5 turns out.
Remember that opening the air correction screw admits more air during
almost-closed throttle making a leaner idle mixture.
Now when you find that jet size you will want to do some final air screw
adjusting to improve throttle response. Assuming that the needle jet is
properly adjusted. Let the engine idle for 5 seconds then open the throttle
abruptly and be aware of how the engine responds. If it almost dies, then
you need a slightly richer idle mixture so that as that mixture is gulped at
abrupt throttle openings it will be just a little rich and therefore give
good response.
You can test this as you ride say slowly in 2nd gear with the throttle
closed so that the engine is drawing only from the pilot. Wick it open
quickly. If you find yourself doing a wheelie, your air correction screw is
set right. If instead the sound is uhhhhhhhhhwwaaaaaaa and you find your
nose a few inches from you triple clamp, then your idle mixture is too lean
and you need to close the screw a little.
12. What is jetting? How does
it work?
This information was
taken from December '96 issue of DIRT WHEELS.
WHAT MEAN JET? : Carb jetting can be easily understood if we understand the
basic principles of carb and engine operation. A carb mixes fuel with air
before it goes into the engine. When the mixture is correct the engine runs
well. The bottom line is a carb must be adjusted to deliver fuel and air to
the engine at a precise ratio. This precise ratio can be affected by a
number of outside and inside influences. If you are aware of these
influences you can re-jet your carb to compensate for the changes. I'm going
to show you some examples of how you can change your jetting for better
performance and in some cases increased engine life. As with any engine work
be sure you have good tools the correct parts and a good manual before you
get your hands dirty!
ALTITUDE COMPENSATION: For our first example let's say we find a new riding
area WAAY up in the mountains. Our jetting is dialled in for our usual
riding area which ranges from sea level to 1500 feet. Our NEW riding area
starts at 4000 feet and goes up from there. Going to a higher elevation will
require will require a jetting change but which way? Like our fuel density,
air density can also change. Higher elevations have less air density then
lower ones. At high elevations our engines are getting less air, so they
need less fuel to maintain the proper air/fuel ratio. Generally you would go
down 1 main jet size for every 1750 to 2000 feet of elevation you go up
(info for Mikuni carbs). If you normally run a 260 main jet at sea level you
would drop down to a 240 at 4000 feet. Something else goes down as you go up
in elevation is horsepower. You can figure on
losing about 3% or your power for every 1000 feet you go up. At 4000 feet
your power will be down about 12%-even though you rejetted! For our second
example let's say we are still at our new 4000-feet elevation riding area
and a storm comes in. We head back to camp and ride it out overnight. The
next day there's a foot of snow on the ground the skies are clear and it's
COLD!. Aside from getting the campfire going and making some coffee you
should be thinking about jetting again! Cold air is dense air and dense air
requires bigger jets. If the 240 jet ran good the day before you will need a
bigger jet to run properly today. If the temperature is 50 degrees colder
than it was the day before you can actually go back to your sea level
jetting, a 260 main jet! If you don't rejet you can kiss your assets goodbye
when you rebuild the seized engine. Air temperature makes that much
difference!
Our final example will deal with something often overlooked. We are still up
in the hills enjoying our NEW riding area when we notice the old fuel supply
getting shorter. No biggie; there's a little store/gas station just down the
road. A short trip a few bucks change hands and we are ready to go again.
Out on the trail the bikes are running funny, sometimes "pinging" and
running HOT. What happened?!?! When we changed jets to compensate for
altitude and temperature we were still using SEA LEVEL gasoline. Gasoline
sold at higher elevations have a different blend of additives to compensate
for the altitude. Generally high elevation gasoline is less dense to
compensate for less available air going into the engine and to aid starting.
The lighter specific gravity of the high elevation fuel actually "leaned
out" our mixture! A 1 to 2 sizes bigger main jet will get us back into the
hunt. If you ride in vastly different areas try to bring enough or your
normal fuel along to last the entire ride. It will save you hassles and grey
hair in the long run!
PILOTS, NEEDLES, MAINS: So far we have only talked about main jet changes to
compensate for altitude, temperature and fuel density. As most of you know
there is a pile of jets in a carb. While main jets are the most critical for
ensuring full power operation and engine longevity, the other jets are
equally as important for a good running engine. Let's run through them
quickly. Pilot jets control the low-speed and idle mixtures. Many times an
adjustable jet is used in conjunction with the pilot jet. The adjustable jet
allows a precise setting of the idle mixture. If the adjustable jet is
located to the rear of the carb and usually on one side it is a AIR
adjustment. It controls the amount of air that mixes with the fuel coming
from the pilot jet. If the adjustable jet is to the front of the carb, on
the side or bottom, it controls the amount of air/fuel mixture going into
the engine. In either case if adjusting the mixture screw won't improve the
low-end running speed it's time for a different pilot jet. Throttle valves
(the slide) control the off idle, to 1-quarter open ,mixture. Some
aftermarket carbs have replacement slides available with different
"cutaways". Changing the cutaway changes the mixture. More cutaway is lean,
less cutaway is rich. Some carbs do not have different slides available, so
you have to compensate by changing the mixture on the idle circuit or
needle circuit. Partial throttle hesitation or rough running can be caused
by the slide cutaway. Needle jets control the amount of fuel going by the
needle and into the engine at low to mid throttle. There are 2 types of
needle jets used in a carb. One is a primary type that has a very precise
hole hole drilled through the middle of it, along it's length. The size of
the hole relative to the size of the needle determines how much fuel goes
into the engine. The other type of needle jet is constructed essentially the
same except for a bunch of holes drilled into the side of the jet. These
holes allow air to mix with the fuel before it's metered into the engine.
Either type of needle jet works well in most cases but there is power to be
gained on HIGH PERFORMANCE 4-STROKES by going to the needle with the holes
in the side. These are called "bleed" type needle jets and produce more
midrange power in a 4stroke. In any engine going to a leaner (smaller)
needle jet is the easiest way to rejet the midrange running when going to
higher elevations. Changing the needle jet leans out the mixture evenly at
all the midrange throttle settings moving the needle clip doesn't. Jet
needles more commonly know as the "needle" control the fuel mixture
throughout the midrange. The shape or taper of the needle dictates how much
fuel goes into the engine at a given throttle opening. The needle must work
in conjunction with the fuelling requirements of the engine relative to
slide position. If you have an engine with a strong hit in the midrange the
needle will probable have a noticeable reduction in size the the slide is
half open. Remember it takes fuel to make power and when the engine makes
power it needs fuel NOW! If it doesn't get the right amount of fuel it pings
or misses. You many have cleared up a little midrange pinging by moving the
needle up a notch but at the same time you may have overrichened some other
areas. If the problem isn't too bad you won't even notice the rich
condition. If the machine stutters before it comes on the power that part of
the needle's taper is too small and the only way to cure it is to get a
needle with a different taper. Finding the right needle can be difficult so
hopefully moving the clip will do the job. Finally the good old mainjet
comes into play at 3-quarters open to full throttle conditions. Most of you
already know a bigger mainjet has a bigger hole so it lets more gas into the
engine! Pretty simple!! As simple as it is the mainjet is absolutely
CRITICAL to high-speed engine operation. Not only does it meter the gas into
the engine, it can aid in cooling the engine as well. A properly sized
mainjet will let the engine make good power for a long time.
A one size smaller mainjet may make greater power for a while. A slightly
rich mixture burns cooler than a lean one so be sure the mainjet is big
enough! One final note on jets. All of them and the carburetion functions
then perform tend to overlap into some other jet's territory. If you mess
with one jet, you may have to mess with a few of the others. My best advice
is to not change more than one jet at a time. Slowly work out the correct
jetting and keep notes on what you are doing. If you get totally fouled up
at least you can go back to where you started.
SIGN, SYMPTOMS AND CAUSES: How would you know if there was something wrong
with your jetting? If you listen, your engine will tell you! All you need is
an interpreter. Since I speak and understand several different engine
dialects, I will give you a hand. Let's start with lean conditions because
they can cause the most damage. In a lean condition the engine will surge
and sometimes ping under acceleration. The engine will also be
"cold-blooded" (hard to start and keep running) but will run better when
hot. The spark plug will look bone white or burned in extreme cases. The
engine may spit back or sneeze thought the carb once in awhile too. If the
engine is running rich the throttle response will be fuzzy and not too
quick. The engine will burble, miss and blow black smoke. It will start easy
but will run funny when fully warmed up. The plug will be dark, wet or
fouled (possible all 3!). Ok so what do you do first to cure the problem?
The very first thing
is to check and adjust the float level. If it's off one way or another it
can throw the jetting off too. Set the float to the specs and retest the
running. The next item is to determine a rich or lean condition. Let's say
the engine gets hot and doesn't pull well. This is a lean condition so the
engine wants more fuel. Stick in at least a two size bigger main jet and try
it again. If it's better but still not right go even bigger on the jet. and
try it again. Bear in mind that drastic or sudden changes in jetting usually
mean an air leak has developed somewhere in the engine. Find it and FIX IT!!
When the engine burbles on the top end come down 1 jet size at a time until
it winds all the way down. Don't drop and more sizes! If the engine seems
sluggish and lumpy or want to load up on the bottom end the mixture is TOO
RICH. Adjusting the low speed mixture screw helps a little but doesn't cure
the problem completely. What you need now is a new pilot jet. Go 1 size
smaller and try the adjustment again. When the engine runs smooth with the
adjustment screw about 1 and a half turns out from the seat you have it!!
IS THAT ALL THERE IS TO JETTING??: There's a lot more to jetting than just
stuffing jets in holes and hoping the problem goes away. If you can
understand what your engine is trying to tell you when it runs funny you
will have a better chance or correcting the problem than someone who doesn't
have a clue. When you rejet, go slowly and carefully until the problem
is solved. As a final thought let me remind you that jetting is a lot like
life, if you have a choice it's always better to be a little rich!!
13. How much pressure or tension is
correct for the adjustment screw on the sidecase of clutch?
Hi, I understood the correct adjustment
for the clutch is as follows-slacken off the adjustment at the handle bars first
then remove the plastic plug, slacken the locknut and screw the screw in until
contact is made ,then back off the screw 1/8 of a turn (what the ccm handbook
says) the rotax engine manual says 3/4 of a turn but I think that is excessive.
Then using the box spanner supplied in the
ccm toolkit, carefully tighten the locknut ensuring the screw does not move with
a screw driver. Re-adjust at the handlebar(2-3mm of slack). Also ensure there is
the correct amount of oil, I checked mine cold after an oil change and I had way
too much causing the clutch to drag when warming up. The clutch will tend to
slip if the adjustment screw is in too far and there is no free play at the
lever. Steve.
14. Will I need to re-jet my bike
if I modify the airbox?
It will need rejetting if you modify the
airbox as you are effectively allowing the engine to consume more air. Four
stroke, or otto cycle engines work on a pressure differential principal or for
the purists amonst us, a constant volume principal. (Before anyone tries to
argue, jet engines (gas turbines) operate on the constant pressure cycle)
This means to say that by causing a very
low pressure in the piston by drawing it down the bore, when the intake valve is
opened, the external air (at normal atmospheric pressure) will rush in to fill
the void left by the piston.
This vacuum effect will draw in anything
around that is "loose" i.e. air and a measured quantity of fuel governed by the
various jets in the carburettor. If there is insufficient air available in the
airbox then the engine will run rich and bog down as it has a higher fuel to air
ratio.
Likewise, if there is insufficient fuel,
i.e. the fuel jets aren't big enough to flow enough fuel to mach the air
quantity, then it will run lean. Running rich is not really a drama, it just
means the bike will feel "woolly" and unresponsive but no real damage will be
done. if, however, it runs lean, it will overheat and very soon pack up with
irreversible, or at least very expensive damage.
YOU NEED TO JET UP IF YOU ALLOW MORE AIR
IN.
15. What battery should
I use for my CCM?
The Yuasa YTX12-BS is a popular
choice with our members and you can purchase these from a number of retailers,
including: Celltech Battery Sales &
Service
16.
What is the correct tyre pressure for Goldspeed Supermoto Tyres?
The Manufacturer's recommended cold
pressures front and rear are 1.65 Bar or approx 24 PSI. These should be adjusted
to suit heavy bikes / riders, ambient temperatures, different track surfaces
etc. but care should be taken not to over-inflate these tyres as this may result
in adverse effects e.g. speed weaves and /or premature wear. Pressures in excess
of 30PSI are not recommended under any circumstances.
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